Like other books that I have read by Ivan Doig, this one is set mostly in Montana where the author grew up. It is about the life and adventures of an eleven year old boy during the summer of 1951. He is being raised by his grandmother after the death of his parents. She is a cook on a cattle ranch in Montana, but needs an operation. So she sends her grandson to his grand aunt and uncle in Manitowoc, Wisconsin to stay with them for the summer while she has the operation and recuperates.
The boy, Donal, rides a Greyhound bus for more than 1600 miles. Along the way he meets all sorts of people and collects their autographs in a book. Almost half the book covers this part of the story with Donal using his imagination to conjure up stories about himself. When Donal finally arrives in Manitowoc, he comes to realize that his Aunt Kate is stingy and rules the household. She and his Uncle Herman are always arguing. Donal is bored with not much to do and spends time with his uncle in his greenhouse talking and watching him garden.
The second half of the book is about Donal and Herman's adventures as they head west on the Greyhound bus. Herman's story slowly unfolds over the course of the rest of the book. The atmosphere of the Crow Fair, Yellowstone N.P. and working on a hay ranch in Montana is evoked very well.
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